Hidden Venice: a walking tour

between San Giovanni e Paolo

and Corte Botera

Discovering a Venice off the beaten track Venice is synonymous with history and architecture, but also with little-known curiosities. If you step away from the most iconic attractions (which we still recommend visiting at least once in a lifetime, such as St Mark’s Square and the Rialto), you can discover more authentic and peaceful areas, perhaps linked to unusual stories or imaginative characters. 

One such itinerary starts at Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo, in the Castello district, and leads to a particularly charming and lesser-known spot: Corte Botera, which is also linked to the world of Hugo Pratt and Corto Maltese.

Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo is one of Venice’s most important squares. Here you’ll find the monumental Basilica of Saints John and Paul, known to Venetians as San Zanipolo, the equestrian statue of the military commander Bartolomeo Colleoni, and the Scuola Grande di San Marco, now part of the Venice Civil Hospital complex.

From here, it is well worth continuing at a leisurely pace, letting the narrow streets and small squares guide you. Furthermore, upon reaching Fondamente Nove, the view opens up and you can admire an unusual perspective of the lagoon: on clear days, your gaze can sweep towards the island of San Michele (Venice’s monumental cemetery), Murano (the island of glass), and the mainland.

It is precisely by getting a little lost that Venice reveals some of its most characteristic corners.

A short distance from Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo lies Corte Botera, a small, cosy and secluded Venetian courtyard. The place is particularly famous amongst fans of Hugo Pratt: it is, in fact, the royal courtyard that the comic-book artist transformed in his imagination into the ‘Corte Sconta detta Arcana’, the setting for one of Corto Maltese’s adventures.

The courtyard’s charm also stems from its architecture: a small enclosed space that retains characteristic elements of Venetian architecture and a cosy atmosphere, very different from that of the city’s grand monuments.

Today it is a private courtyard and can only be admired from the outside. Even without going inside, the walk to Corte Botera allows you to discover a part of the Castello district far removed from the busier parts of Venice and to appreciate just how easy it is, even today, to come across surprising views just a stone’s throw from the main monuments.

From our hotel, you can reach Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo with a pleasant 20-minute stroll through Venice’s historic centre. Walk along Calle Larga XXII Marzo, one of Venice’s most elegant shopping streets, cross Piazza San Marco, head towards Santa Maria Formosa and then continue on to your destination.

You’ll gradually leave the busiest streets behind and wander through narrow streets, squares and little-known corners of the city.

There’s no need to follow a guided route: in Venice, even the journey to your destination can become part of the experience.

This short walk is an example of how to experience Venice beyond its most well-known routes: not necessarily by seeking out attractions to tick off a list, but simply by walking, observing and letting the city spark your curiosity.

If you’d like to discover other lesser-known places, unusual routes or interesting facts about the most authentic Venice, our concierge will be happy to recommend an itinerary based on the time you have available and your interests.